Somm says: Value wines for the holidays
Let’s face it, the holidays are a cash suck. But there’s no need to cut back on presents or that amazing new outfit in order to afford great wines. Here, some suggestions from Alyssa Golub, Director of Client Services at FnB Tech, on how to choose value wines – and some of her favorites.
1. Shop the Story. “For me, I think there’s value in the story behind the wine. You can look at 100 bottles but when a Somm at the restaurant or wine shop tells you a story about the vineyard or the wine, there’s a connection with the maker.”
One favorite: Sean Thackery, hailed as the Alice Waters of the wine world. He makes a Rosè from Sangiovese that’s a little darker in color. “Really fun and yummy. Some Rosés don’t hold up to food, but this has more depth.” Try it: Sean Thackery Fifi Rosé of Sangiovese, ($18).
2. Try a new region. “Wine is now becoming a lot trendier and there are a lot of different regions that are up and coming, and the wine is delicious,” says Golub. “Don’t be deterred by lower prices if it’s a smaller region.”
Golub cites the Italian region of Sicily, and domestically, Virginia, the Finger Lakes region of New York, Santa Barbara and Mendocino as some of her favorite regions to watch. She recommends Empire Estate Dry Riesling ($16), made in the Finger Lakes by Thomas Pastuszak, wine director of the Nomad Hotel New York, as great dry Riesling. Or try the Calabretta Nerello Mascarese from Sicily, which at $25 is far more cost friendly than that $80 Barolo.
3. Watch for up and coming labels. These days, winemakers trying to create a more affordable label can go to crush facilities and make wine. “It’s very cost friendly,” says Golub, who has several friends getting in the game this way. “Keeping the vineyard, aging the wine, this all contributes to cost.” And without those costs, the winemakers can pass value on to us.
Like Kivelstadt Cellars, a small producer in Glen Ellen, CA. “They’re doing a lot of French Rhone, very different and a fun wine.” Try Mother of Invention, their White Rhone blend, ($27). Subject to Change is another pick, started by friends in Sonoma County.
4. Know what you like. “Not the region or the grape, but the flavor profiles,” advises Golub. “Do you like more floral or drier? Heavy, light, more tannins? If you have those things in your head and go to wine shop: that’s the way to success.” That’s easy these days, with more good wine shops getting in the game, where the staff are knowledgeable and offer regular tastings. Some she likes:
-Verve Wines, NY/SF. Check out their $30 and under section, with under-the-radar bottles not found elsewhere. https://vervewine.com/collections/30-and-under
-Also in SF, Arlequin Wine Merchant has weekly tastings. They sell expensive but also approachable and delicious picks under $20 from smaller regions in Italy and Greece, from less familiar varietals. Bonus: They’ll open it for you and you can enjoy it on the spot.
She recommends Flatiron Wine and Spirits as well, with shops in both NY and SF. For those in smaller cities, Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s have good value picks as well.
Golub also notes online options, where the picks are curated and offered up with knowledge. Like Garagiste.com, started in the ’90s by Jon Rimmerman, who travels to find smaller producers not as familiar in the US. She also likes lastbottlewines.com –sign up and they shoot you an email with one offering a day, which often sells out in hours.
A few more picks: White: Lieu Dit Chenin Blanc ($27), made by Eric Railsback, formerly of Verve. Golub likes “all their wines.” https://www.lieuditwinery.com/
Bubbles: “People think bubbles as special occasion but I think it can be paired with everything and drunk through the meal,” Golub says. “So much good sparkling wine is coming out of everywhere.” One pick: Chateau de Breze, a cremant from the Loire region of France. At $25 it’s “really yummy.”
Red: Copain Wines, both their Pinot Noir ($20) and Syrah ($29).
Thanks Alyssa — we can’t wait to try!